Kia 585002G100 Booster & Master Cylinder

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Before removing the Brake Master Cylinder, it is advisable to cover all body parts to avoid the effects of brake fluid on paint or any other finished surface and wipe off any spillage with water. It can be started by taking out the air filter housing and the air intake duct and with a syringe pump, the fluid should be tried to be suctioned out from the reservoir. Remove the electrical connector for the brake fluid level warning switch, put rags at the fittings, and have caps or plastic for the ends for each line that will be disconnected. Open the brake line connections to the Brake Master Cylinder by slightly loosening the brake line end fittings with a flare-nut wrench you choose to avoid rounded flats. Gently pull off the brake lines and cap the opposite ends to avoid any possibility of fouling of the lines. Before disconnecting, take out the nuts which connect the Brake Master Cylinder to the power booster and be careful not to over-turn and twist the brake lines and of course, avoid spilling the fluid. If this is not possible, then cut or un-bolt the brake lines running to the ABS actuator if they cannot be located out of the way. To install the new Brake Master Cylinder, the latter should be bench bled first: put the Brake Master Cylinder in the vise and connect the bleeder tubes to the outlet ports. Pour the recommended brake fluid into the reservoir and gradually depress the pistons into the Brake Master Cylinder to em prejudice the air into the reservoir doing this until no air bubbles are observed at all. At this point, detach the bleed tubes and plug the open ports, and then place the reservoir cover on followed by placing the Brake Master Cylinder over the studs on the power brake booster and tightening the nuts until only with your fingers. Insert the brake line fittings into the Brake Master Cylinder being careful not to damage the threads on the nipple, and tighten the mounting nuts and brake line fittings tightly. Add fluid to the Brake Master Cylinder reservoir and then evacuate the Brake Master Cylinder and the brake system with an assistant exerting steady pressure on the brake pedal and loose the fitting nut to let out air and fluid. Even if brake lines between the Brake Master Cylinder and the ABS actuator are removed, bleed the brake line at the ABS control unit. Last of all, the rest of the installation is done in the reverse sequence to the removal process, and it is essential to carry out brake system operations with all caution before regular use. If there are doubts over the brake system efficiency or if the brake pedal has a spongy feel after bleeding, it is advisable to consult a mechanic due to the hydraulic control unit for the models that come with ABS.

For detailed photographs of the brake system, inspect the brakes every time the wheels are removed or whenever a defect is suspected. Symptoms indicating a potential brake system defect include the vehicle pulling to one side when the brake pedal is depressed, squealing or dragging noises when applied, excessive brake pedal travel, pulsating pedal, or brake fluid leaks, typically onto the inside of the tire or wheel. Begin by loosening the wheel lug nuts, raising the vehicle securely on jackstands, and removing the wheels. In disc brakes, each caliper contains two pads (outer and inner) that are visible with the wheels removed. Check the pad thickness by looking at each end of the caliper and through the inspection window; if the lining material is less than the specified thickness, replace the pads. If the thickness is difficult to determine, remove the caliper(s) and pads for further inspection, cleaning them with brake cleaner and re-measuring. Measure the disc thickness with a micrometer; if any disc is thinner than the specified minimum, replace it, and check for scoring, gouging, or burned spots, which may require resurfacing. Before reinstalling the wheels, check all brake lines and hoses for damage, wear, or leakage, ensuring they are clear of sharp edges and moving parts. For rear drum brakes, ensure the parking brake is off, remove screws around the drum, and tap the outside with a rubber mallet to loosen it. Clean the brake assembly with brake system cleaner, noting the lining thickness on the brake shoes; replace them if worn to within 1/16-inch of the rivets or if cracked or glazed. Ensure all springs are connected and check for fluid leakage from the wheel cylinder. Wipe the inside of the drum with a clean rag and check for cracks or imperfections that may require resurfacing. Repeat for the remaining wheel, and if all parts are in good condition, reinstall the brake drums and wheels. To check the brake booster, sit in the driver's seat and perform a series of tests: with the brake fully depressed, start the engine and observe if the pedal moves down slightly; with the engine running, depress the brake pedal several times to ensure the travel distance remains unchanged; then, with the engine off, hold the pedal for about 30 seconds to check for sinking or rising. Finally, check the parking brake by parking on a steep hill with the brake set; if it cannot prevent rolling, it requires attention.

When removing the power brake booster units, note that they shouldn't be disassembled due to their complexity and the need for special tools.